The great dichotomy of Indian modelling is that even as it becomes more lucrative and professional it is also getting seedier as aspiring runway queens get exploited.

"The modelling scene is getting rather chaotic," said Rina Dhaka, one of India's top designers at a meeting of industry specialists to discuss the modelling scene. "Even while some Indian names are making waves across the world, in some places in India modelling is synonymous with prostitution," said Dhaka at the capital's Forum lounge late Thursday night.

"That's a serious problem and we certainly need to bring in place processes that will eliminate the wheat from the chaff."

In recent times, Indian model Ujwala Raut has put the country firmly in the international modelling scene by taking the runways of Paris and Milan by storm. "I was in New York and every second billboard had her face, I was astonished.

"This was the same girl who once took waterlogged subways because she had no money, now she is one of the richest models in the world."

On the other hand are young models like Ignatius, who claims he was once asked to sleep with a choreographer to bag an assignment.

"The casting couch definitely exists, especially for new entrants into the scene. It's an occupational hazard one has to negotiate," he said.

Even more sordid are small town fashion shows in India where organisers looking to make a quick buck grab money from aspirants - many of whom neither have the looks, nor the height or talent to be a model - promising mega assignments.