India boasts of a vast cultural and historical heritage. But the same is not true of the US. Ever since the United States came into existence and especially after the Second World War, the Americans have tried to salvage and save whatever precious little they could from the tide of time and put it to good use in developing tourism in the country. Money and creativity together can sometimes make inspiring inventions. This I learnt in one of my jaunts to the Wisconsin state.
It so happened that during my visit to Milwaukee, it was suggested that I should also visit the Wisconsin Dells—a quaint city—known for its entertainment in summer. It boasts of a number of water parks and rides, apart from a number of interesting tours. One such tour, which caught my fancy, was the Duck Tour, where a machine takes you both on the land and water with the ease of an amphibian animal. In the vicinity of Wisconsin Dells is the Lower Dell Scenic Park, where an entrepreneur has put to good use his ingenuity to entertain tourists on land and water on amphibian vehicles abandoned by the Army. Of course, the natural floral and fauna of the Park are intact in their original form.
Seeing is believing, but experiencing a ride on an amphibian vehicle was indeed amazing. And more amazing is the history behind its birth. The US fought all its battles across the Pacific or Atlantic. As an allied power, the US had to send its troops, equipment and battle supplies across the oceans into the territories invaded by the Germans. In the absence of proper seaports, the ships could not move towards land beyond a certain point. Necessity is the mother of invention. General Motors was asked by the military to make vehicles, which could move both on earth and water. And GM codenamed these vehicles DUKWs. GIs found it convenient to call them Ducks. (GI stands for Government Issue and applied to all articles issued in conformity with US military regulations or procedures. By WWII, it had become a nickname for the soldiers themselves.)
On the D-Day in 1944, the US Army conducted the biggest amphibious of history at Normandy by putting to use 2,000 Ducks. Besides Normandy, Ducks were employed to ferry soldiers wherever the receding enemy blasted the bridges. But, howsoever important they had been in the World War; the Ducks were rendered useless in the post war era.
Herman Breitenbach, an enterprising man, thought of putting them to use for joyrides in the Lower Dells Natural Park. Breitenbach, along with his friends, bought some of them and introduced them to the picturesque region of Lower Dell Natural Park. (Today, they are the most preferred mode of public transport in the city of Wisconsin Dells). Ducks are painted and refurbished from time to time to keep them in fighting-fit conditions. The joyride of Ducks in Wisconsin Dells uniquely combines history; natural beauty of ravines, wooded trails and waters to make the experience unforgettable. We were shown Ducks that can accommodate around a dozen passengers. A jolly good fellow who shakes hands with all of us and welcomes us aboard the Duck in the most eloquent manner is our driver and captain as well as our guide and friend on the amphibious journey. (We were later told that all drivers of Ducks are given a few weeks of orientation course in entertaining tourists)
In true seafaring traditions, each Duck has a unique name. Our Duck named Leyte Gulf starts and zooms into the vibrant greens stretched all across, as far as the eye could see. We were informed that there are Duck trails all over the Dell Park and no other vehicle dare travel there. (The driver says nothing could sneak onto its route but if something ever does, the Duck would make mincemeat out of it, just like it did to the Nazis).
The zigzag route takes us to the grand Wisconsin River. Here we wait for the most breathtaking moment—the real time of trial—when we were to see how this machine takes on the role of a boat. We all hold our breath as it makes a giant splash like that of a crocodile taking to water. Once inside the water, the driver shifts the gear and the wheels disengage from the power shaft. In a single shift of gear, the driver starts the propellers that keep the boat on the move. Within the next moment, the Duck is gliding on the waters with the ease of its namesake bird.
We cruised along the great Wisconsin River as the driver told us the history of craggy mountains that lined its banks. The tall pines made the view a breathtaking one. The waters of the river are dark brown, the colour they get from the tannic acid that is secreted by the trees that stand on its shores. We were told that one H.H. Bennet, who spent a lifetime roaming this region, first photographed the Wisconsin River and the surrounding Dells. His entire collection of photographs is collected and maintained at the downtown Wisconsin Dells.The mountains surrounding the River were the habitat of the various Red Indian tribes till the white settlers came and both the races co-existed here. Often there would be skirmishes, which made the Indians flee from the region of the Dells. But since this area was a subject of veneration for them, they returned. There is a story associated with each and every creek, pass or channel situated alongside the great Wisconsin River. As the Duck sails on, we come across an abandoned place, which the driver tells us was the site of the settlement of the city of Newport. In fact, some dispute among the authorities led the city to be shifted elsewhere; yes, lock, stock and barrel, people moved from here, and the only testimonial to the erstwhile city is the Dawn Manor. It was the mansion of a civil war veteran and after his death, has changed hands many times.
Now, it is time for the boat to turn into a mini-bus again. Disengaging the propeller, the driver engages the wheels and we are on land again. He takes us up a hillock. And from the top he starts the descent. Down below, we see a lake. The driver blacks out his vision by keeping his hand on the eyes. We scream in panic. Once more, the driver wants to take us into the water, this time into the artificial lake Delton. “Don’t worry”, he quips, “this splash won’t wet your clothes... it is an artificial lake.” Yeah! There we go once again at the speed of 50 mph into the water. A wealthy landlord of Wisconsin Dells created Lake Delton for his children. It s spread over 600 acres and 100 years on, it still serves to entertain tourists.
Finally, the driver gives an opportunity to the children to try their hand at driving the Duck in the lake. The tour ends. We go overboard, guffawing at a joke from the driver.
