Two days of travel by train, bus, and then by jeep brought us to Song, a sleepy hamlet on the banks of the Revati Ganga River, located in Bageswer district of Uttaranchal. Here, we were joined by a group of three Britishers. Like us, they were headed towards the Pindari Glacier. It was a marvellous experience to be with Chris, Glen, and Steve. In fact, it was an interactive journey, where besides enjoying the trip to Pindari, we talked, and shared a lot of information about each other's country.
From Song another short trip by jeep took us to Loharkhet. And from Loharkhet—a village scattered over a hill slope, began the tortuous journey. By afternoon we had crossed the Dhakuri Pass and from there, we got a breathtaking view of Dhakuri—a small disc like open space set in a dense forest cover of cedars, rhodenderons, and pine. In the middle of the sprawling green panorama, like ladybirds on a green leaf, stood the rest of houses of Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) and Public Works Department (PWD).
The trek downwards to the Dhakuri meadow was easy. It was evening already and we cooked rice and lentils on the logs and ate to our heart's content. Then we slithered into our sleeping bags and slept. Next day, we set out towards Khati, which is the most populous village on the trek, with about 50 houses. From here different routes branch off for Kafni, Sunderdhunga group, and Pindari glaciers. Although, it was pre-decided to proceed to Pindari, we were in a quandary for a moment, whether to go to Kafni or Pindari. Sunderdhunga glaciers, the locals told us, need at least seven days to visit.Shaking off the dilemma, we decided to move on for Pindari. After crossing two bridges and then walking on the banks of the 'noisy and meandering' Pindar River, we reached Dwali—a plateau that is surrounded by two water falls, which then merge into the Pindar River. Before we retired to our sleeping bags, the chowkidar regaled us with legends and myths about the region—about the earlier adventurers, those who perished in expeditions on glaciers and their lurking ghosts! Sometimes, it is good to hear such stories, even if you know they are sheer bluffs. He told us about the mythological antecedents of Pindari too. It was visited by the Pandavas, in the years of their exile, and here they had donated alms for the welfare of their ancestors. The ritual is called Pind Dan and hence the name Pindari. The whole night, the sound of cascading waters kept pouring into my ears but not for a second did I feel disturbed. Such is the magnanimity of Mother Nature!
Dwali to Phurkia is a very arduous route as the trek takes a steep climb. All of us ran out of breath often. The steps become small and measured. The landscape changed from dense forest to green and grassy mountains. Here and there, we came across a wild horse, a sheep, or a mountain goat. En route to final destination was the Phurkia rest house. It had the least possible necessities of life—logwood and a match box lying in the kitchen—two things, you just can't survive without in those conditions. We had no inclination to stay here—nor could we have, because we had left most of our paraphernalia back at Dwali. Chilly winds blew hard and fast on our faces and our speed decreased to a snail's place..We came across a couple of small glaciers and crossing them was not much of a hassle. However, some of the small bridges had been washed off. Wading through water at times was indeed a risky affair. We reached the Zero Point where the Pindari glacier ends and the river originates. Oh! What a mesmerising sight it was! It can neither be described in words nor can it be effaced from my memory. It was a massive 'river of snow' between two towering mountains ending in a snout. We tried to go near the snout, but the clouds were fast approaching the glacier. A local shepherd warned us from going down. Instead, we huddled together in the shepherd's cottage to have a cup of tea. In fact, the shepherd, his flock, and his cottage, were part of a sheep rearing project of the government in collaboration with the Australians.
Soon it was time to look backwards. It was pouring rain and the light was fading fast. We had to make it to Dwali before the night fall. Despite the fatigue, we scampered back. Flashlights had to used to find our way back. Completely drenched by the rain, we reached Dwali. It was night already. Next day, we were again on the trot early. Walking past Khati we reached Dhakuri—another night halt. There we had a good bath in the spring water and scrubbed ourselves with towels. We lay back on the grass, looking towards the sky in the soothing sunshine. Conversation drifted towards metaphysics, existence, life and death, God, and ways to reach Him. The day passed in relaxing and talking.
Next day we decided to start back for Bageswar. Chris, Glen, and Steve intended to stay a day or two more at Dwali. It was the most poignant farewell I have ever had. Our British friends hugged us, shook hands, and embraced us for a long time. Tears rolled down everybody's cheeks. They kept waving as long as they could see us. At Bageswar, we made for the KMVN hotel. It is a lovely hotel and we slept on a bed. It seemed that it was after ages that we got a bed. We took a hot water bath and ate a proper meal. We had been surviving on nuts, half boiled rice, and lentils.Next morning we had to start back. There were a group of Sadhus who met us in the lobby; one of them was a graduate from St. Stephens College. He had given up material pursuits to lead a mendicant's life. This Stephenian was a part of the group that was heading for Pindari for their annual pilgrimage.
Pindari was to keep getting its share of footfall.
